AMT .380 Backup Single Action disassembly and cleaning.
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Remember, they're two kinds of people, those who clean their guns and those who don't.:)
(This is to be done with the gun unloaded and the clip removed).
I wrote the page because when I first bought and tried to clean this pistol I found it hard. I hade no manual, could find little help(via the web or otherwise) and it didn't come apart like many pistols I have owned. But since I have some mechanical ability I finally brought together enough tips that I got it all figured out and down to a science. Then I realized there most be others out there who would be experiencing that same situation. Ahh the power of the web. I wrote a page so others could get their AMT .380's broken down and cleaned.
1. Using an 1/8-inch pin punch drive out the pin that goes through the bolt to hold the bolt in place driving it from left to right. To do this place the pistol on it's right side on two pieces of wood leaving a gap where the pin will move when you drive it out(the gap should be a bit smaller than the one in the pic).
2. Once the pin is out, place a small object(like a pen as see in the pic) under and up the rear bottom part of the slide after pulling the slide back. This is to keep the slide from pushing the bolt against the barrel so you'll be able to knock the bolt out.
3. With the gun upside down, place a dowel rod or similar object(as long as it's softer than steel) down through the magazine(where the clip goes) and against the bottom of the bolt. You'll see two "rails' that hold the round down. If you hit that with the dowel rod the bolt will move out. It may take some force if the pistol has not been taken apart in a while.
4. Once the bolt is out, you should be able to move the slide forward to the point where it lifts off the frame. You may need to hold down the hammer if it sticks up and stops the frame from moving by pushing it down with the pin punch until the slide moves past it. If the hammer is not cocked the slide should lift off the frame OK.
5. The pistol is apart enough for a good general cleaning but to be thorough, remove the grips, keeping an eye on the few small parts and noting how it goes together.
6. Now you can clean the barrel and firing chamber with a brass barrel brush with CLP(Cleaner, Lubricant, Protectant like Brake-Free). Very important to get that clean for good feeding and barrel life. After cleaning, leave the barrel bone dry to keep any oil from attracting dust. Also be sure to clean the feed ramp(see pic below) until it shines. Be also sure to clean the bolt where the back of the round seats(see pic below). Dirt there will not allow the round to sit where the firing will hit it properly and result in poor reliability.
7. Spray the pistol with CLP and let it sit for a while to loosen crud. Then wipe away the CLP with clean rags or paper towels until the gun is clean. Take your time and clean all you can as best you can. Use Q-tips if needed. Clean up inside the magazine, slide, frame, slide spring, slide rod and the clips if they need it.
-(Optional as routine)-Removing and cleaning the firing pin, its spring, the extractor, its pin and spring(it's very small so keep an eye on it) should be done from time to time(you will need a 1/16 inch Allen key/wrench for the grip screws). I don't notice dirt gather there very quickly. I do it about every 150-200 rounds if nothing else to inspect those parts). This is done by driving out the pin that goes through the bolt and extractor and all will come up and you can then remove the extractor, its spring, the firing pin its spring and clean and inspect. If the firing pin spring is broke it will hurt the extractor from working right. The firing pin being held back has a groove that gives the extractor more force down on the rim of the case. Just make sure all are in good shape and clean inside the bolt since you have it apart if you do this step.
Note: The trigger disconnecter has a notch which the small spring mounted on the frame must rest in. Make sure it goes back up in(on the underside of the disconnector)for proper functioning of the trigger mechanism. Also the pin that goes through the ejector(to hold it in place) and frame can easily come out with the pistol apart. So watch it, it's small and hard to find it it falls out.
8. If the pistol has any corrosion I recommend using "NEVR-DULL" to polish it. Rub away the polish to remove its residue. Don't polish the side of the slides very much if at all. You can damage to etching the factory put on the side of the slide.
9.Once all is clean, remove any residual CLP you’re ready to reassemble.
10. Put back the rod in the slide spring and put the slide back in it's tracks on the frame and slide it backward.
11. With something up under the rear of the frame to hold the slide back, place the bolt over the frame above it slot, making sure the back of the firing pin doesn't hang on the frame and drive it back in place with a cloth over it with a small hammer to prevent marring. Sometimes you can drive it back it with your fist with a rag over it. Then drive the pin back through the slide and bolt(from left to right) leaving an equal amount of recess on each side once in and you're done.
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My opinion on the AMT .380: I have owned the gun for several years now. When I have had problems it was always because one of the small parts was broken(extractor, firing pin spring, firing pin) and not a problem with the design or quality of the pistol. This is no junk gun(it's no Beretta or Glock either). You don't make junk guns out of stainless steel. You make them out of nickel or other cheap soft material. It's a
simple gun(like most "blow-back" pistols). You have to understand that this is a small(concealable) pistol by design and it's real strong point. So design compromises must be made. As a result they need to use very small parts which need to replaced more often than on a large frame pistol(very small pistols often have shorther service lives and need more care and parts replacement if used often). If you're having a problem there's probably a simple reason. A part may need to be replaced, need a very thorough cleaning or an adjustment is needed. Otherwise when properly cared for I've found this to be a good gun(and I own several brands). Remember, this gun is designed to very concealable and is. To have that you may need to learn a little more about keeping it in good working order than perhaps a large frame pistol that is made more robustly, because of less constraints due to not having to be very concealable. If you can't get it working right, e-mail me and I'll try to help you figure it out. Also I have found that this gun works best with factory ammo, no reloads(but some may work with reloads OK). Some autos are like that and not a sign of anything wrong. Find a brand it shots well and stick with it. Otherwise, keep it clean and in good shape mechanically and you'll have a good AMT.
You can e-mail me at alankwak@juno.com or alankwak@hotmail.com
I have the manual for this pistol in .pdf file form(Adobe Acrobat Reader, which is available free) and can send it to anyone who asks.